Buenos Aires, Argentina


Before I go any further, I was disappointed by the lack of “Messi love” I saw in Buenos Aires. Lionel Messi, an Argentine, is and will probably be the best soccer player of my generation by the time he is finished playing; and I saw only one billboard of him during my entire weekend in Argentina. I guess it’s true that “a prophet is usually not welcome in his own hometown,” but I just had to get that out of the way, first.
I went to Argentina to visit some of the E&Y fellows working in Buenos Aires. When in a new city, I usually try to get the gist by doing either a walking tour or a bicycle tour – something active. Angela Gomez and Roni Gibri hooked me up with their tour guide, Jonathan Evans, who had an interesting mix of walking, buses, and the subway on his tour. He also knew a lot about Buenos Aires. The tour was great; the city has a rich history and a very European feel to it both in the architecture and in the overall layout.
Independence statue with National Congress in the backdrop, National Cathedral, Plaza de Mayo,  and Ceibo - Argentina's national plant


Line A of the Supte- from the outside and the inside


Fileteado PorteƱo,  One of Rodin's original pieces of "Thinking Man," and the National Congress

David, me and Jonathan (our tour guide), The Old Spanish Command Post In Plaza de Mayo, and the Obelisk

One of the best things about visiting Buenos Aires was the fact that I knew people there. It was great to be a tourist during the day and then hang out like/with the locals thereafter (I consider the E&Y fellows in BA to be locals now).  We stayed at Palermo Hollywood and hung out in Palermo SoHo a bit.  Palermo is one of many barrios (or districts) in the greater Buenos Aires metropolitan area.  Palermo SoHo is similar to the entertainment district, SoHo, in New York. We ate a lot, walked a lot and danced…some. Palermo Hollywood has no similarities to Hollywood, CA. Rumor has it that it was named Hollywood after two TV stations set up camp there.
Magdalena's party  in Parlemo SoHo with Angela, Anthony, Me, David, Trevor, Daniel, Roni and Dinner in Puerto Madero

Overall, I had a great experience but I secretly wished I had a little more time. My only regret while I was in BA was not getting to see a tango show. It was a short but great trip.
Some highlights from my time with the E&Y fellows in Argentina:
  • Tango is the city’s (maybe even the country’s) biggest cultural export.
  • Malbec (the wine) flows like water here
  • So does the meat – I had my first steak in over a month while I was here and it was so good; the portions are very generous too
  • They also love their un-crusted ham and cheese sandwiches (served at the hotel, the E&Y office and even the SkyTeam airport lounge)
  • Dinner at 10pm or later is the norm
  • The Superclasico was the best soccer experience I have ever had
Thanks to the E&Y Buenos Aires CR Fellows: Roni Gibri, David McGibbons, Angela Gomez and Daniel Paquin, for being great hosts.


Shots of Carlos Gardel, the Argentina's own version of Frank Sinatra







Superclasico- River Plate vs. Boca Juniors

10/28/2012

Armed guards, cages, barricades, smoke flares, confetti (essentially, thousands of pages of work emails, english lessons, and history exams ripped to shreds by hand) and an inflated pig. The barricades and cages are not a joke. The visiting team had its own section of the stadium, walled-off from the home team because it is impossible for them to co-exist in the same location and for peace to reign; and all this was before the actual game had begun.
  River Plate celebrating goal No. 2


 
 


Georgia – Florida, Army – Navy, Ohio State – Michigan, Duke – North Carolina, and Louisville – ­­Kentucky are all some of the most heated rivalries known in American sports. In futebol they refer to them  as “classicos” or “derbies.” Essentially these games are typically annual or semi-annual encounters by rival teams, either in the same city or leagues. My top 5 classicos are:

  •      El Classico (Spain) – Barcelona vs. Real Madrid
  •      Milan Derby (Italy) – AC Milan vs. Inter Milan 
  •      London Derby (England) – Chelsea vs. Arsenal 
  •      Manchester Derby (England) – Manchester United vs. Manchester City 
  •      Super Classico (Argentina) – River Plate vs. Boca Juniors

On Sunday, the Super Classico between River Plate and Boca Juniors put the heat in heated rivalry. This game was bigger than most of their previous encounters because they had not played in over 18 months, as such, there was a lot of pent-up aggression. River Plate was relegated to the second division for the entire 2011 season and as a result the two teams have not played since late 2010. Like so many of my experiences in South America so far, words and pictures are not enough to capture the experience. Energetic, exciting, vulgar, dangerous, entertaining, and fun are just a few words that come to mind.


Too busy watching the game to bother selling coke..

Me and Roni, another EY fellow, taking in the excitement



Before the game – Notice no blue and yellow jersey (Boca’s colors) anywhere remotely close to the red and white (River Plate colors)



Some fans spend more time watching and insulting the opposing fans than actually watching the game.  
Some risk safety just to be seen defying the opposing team



Others hurl chairs, diapers, plastic bottles over the barricade during the game (yup! Those are the bases of many chairs that have been ripped apart!)


   

Boca Juniors’ first goal – via penalty kick


 
 A video of the electric atmosphere at the game



I have been lucky enough to watch some major soccer tournaments, on what I perceive to be a “grander scale” but this experience trumps them all. I was honestly a little disappointed by the quality of the actual game on the pitch, but the entire viewing experience definitely takes top spot.



The game ended in a very dramatic fashion with Boca Junior scoring 2 goals in the final 15 minutes to tie the game. The second was scored in the final minute of the game, with the celebration, gesturing, and chair throwing that ensued; you would think a championship was on the line. But for many in Argentina, this was just another league game between rivals River Plate and Boca Juniors who sit 6th and 9th, respectively, on the league table only a third of the way into the season.



For me, and the several dozen tourists in our group that took in this experience, it was pure entertainment pleasure. Thanks to Trevor and Daniel for setting this up, and to LandingPadBA for an enjoyable experience that was “close enough” to all the action but still safe.




Colonia, Uruguay


Colonia del Sacramento
Approaching Colonia Del Sacramento

Since it was only 30 miles (1 hour by ferry) from Buenos Aires, I decided to spend a day in Colonia del Sacramento. I went on a walking tour through “old town” Colonia and learned about its history; made some new friends, and had an amazing lunch of Chivito and red wine at a very colorful place called “The Drug Store” – please don’t ask me why.

The Drug Store, the chefs, and Chivito: eggs, ham, steak, potatoes, salad, and more. 

Some fun facts:
  • Colonia is the oldest city in Uruguay
  • “Ownership” changed several times between Spain, Portugal, Brazil and Uruguay
  • With roughly 22,000 residents, the city has approximately 3 million visitors a year (Uruguay, as a country, has approximately 3.5 million residents)
Overall, it was a great visit. I think one full day is all you really need in Colonia but it was a good change of pace from the big city life of Sao Paulo.

Inside an Old Church in the City

Deciding where to go for a souvenir, one or my tour guides, new friends on a walking tour, and an old store


An old pedestrian road with original stones, the old city gate, and a view that, on a clear day, reaches all the way to Buenos Aires.

An old car and the boat that would take me back to Buenos Aires
Leaving Colonia